Interview with the head chef of Semillon restaurant

The Faroe Islands, Belgium – and finally Vráble. Roman's journey led through Michelin-starred gastronomy, which shaped his view of ingredients, flavours and the dining experience itself. Today he runs the fine dining restaurant Semillon, where he plays with well-known Slovak flavours so that they remain familiar, yet look completely different on the plate. In 2026, he received the Young Talent of the Year award from Gault&Millau. In this interview, he reveals what he brought from around the world into his own kitchen – and why he ultimately decided to stay at home.

When did you first feel that cooking would be your path in life?

Probably with my first paycheque. (smiles) Despite the small amount, I decided to give gastronomy a try. My mentor Marek Radič, then head chef of the Kampa Park restaurant in Prague, also played a big role in that. He was an excellent teacher.

Later, you made it all the way into Michelin-starred gastronomy. What did that world teach you?

Humility towards ingredients, definitely. Working with people from all over the world also taught me a great deal. I had colleagues from Mexico to Asia, so I got to know different cultures and flavours. And, of course, it taught me how to cook and keep improving. If I hadn't gone abroad and experienced Michelin-starred cooking, I probably wouldn't be where I am today. Working for Michelin is like playing in the Champions League.

Roman Borovský's archive

You were there at the birth of KOKS in the Faroe Islands. What is life like for a chef in a place that is geographically and gastronomically far removed from the ordinary world?

The story began when I wrote to top restaurants in Scandinavia, and it was KOKS that replied. So I wrote back that I was coming. Only when I looked up where the Faroe Islands actually are did I realise what I was getting myself into. I flew out and landed in a country with nothing but hills, grass and sheep. I didn't really know what I would be doing there. But once I got to know the team, the kitchen and the local culture, I fell in love with the place. If I could, I would happily move back there for a while today.

What did Scandinavia in particular add to your own culinary signature?

It showed me that less can be more. There's no need to put lots of ingredients on the plate and overload the dish unnecessarily. What matters is letting the core product shine. Personally, I don't try to combine too many flavours. I'd rather work with three or four, so that the main ingredient stays at the centre of attention.

Is there a dish you tasted somewhere in the world that is still on your mind today?

Parmigiana from Palermo. I was completely amazed by the flavour they managed to create. And yet it's a very simple dish – aubergine, cheese and tomato sauce. But it's still on my mind to this day.

After years abroad, you returned to Slovakia. Why?

First and foremost because of Covid. Then came the opportunity to open Semillon, and the investor gave me a free hand. He didn't dictate which direction the kitchen should take. That's exactly what kept me in Slovakia.

Weren't you worried that Vráble is too small a town for fine dining?

No. KOKS was essentially at the top of a mountain, reached by a single bumpy road. Where a restaurant is located isn't all that important. What matters is who is in charge of it and how it's run.

Bowl Ø 12.5 cm, h: 5.5 cm
Gaya Atelier Space Komet

Bowl Ø 15 cm, h: 3.5 cm
Levante Pearl

Ramen bowl Ø 14 cm, h: 7 cm
Levante Pearl

What does modern Slovak cuisine mean to you?

We try to transform traditional Slovak flavours into a modern form. It might be a new take on granadír, pasta with potatoes, or bryndzové halušky – potato dumplings with sheep's cheese – prepared differently. We don't want to diminish the classics in any way. I love them. But I enjoy playing with the ingredients so that a dish looks different but still tastes traditional.

When you create a new dish, where does the whole process begin?

Every dish comes about differently. I don't have a set method. It's influenced by the season, the weather, what's ripening at the moment, but also by my mood and how I feel. Sometimes we have a core product and gradually build from there. We test, make changes and look for the version where we say: this works now.

Can you still go to a restaurant as an ordinary guest, or do you automatically analyse everything?

I analyse, but I try not to criticise. I'm interested in how the flavours are combined, what techniques the chef used and how they managed to create that particular dish. I don't think anyone has the right to automatically criticise someone else's work without sensing and understanding that chef's idea. And I still consider myself a young head chef, so I go to restaurants mainly to learn.

Fine dining used to be seen as a very formal world. Is that changing?

Definitely. In my opinion, fine dining has opened up to the public. People are no longer so stiff, and they don't feel that the whole restaurant will stare at them if they drop a fork. For some, taste is the most important thing; for others, it's the visuals or the setting. We try to make it a complete experience – food, ambience and wine.

This year, you received the Young Talent of the Year award from Gault&Millau. What does such recognition mean to you?

I was delighted, because I didn't expect it at all. What's more, I only just made the age limit, as the award is for chefs aged 33 and under. (smiles) Of course, every good rating from a restaurant guide makes us happy. But an even greater reward for me is a full restaurant and guests who keep coming back.

At the end of the day, how do you know the service went well?

In the evening, we always go over what worked and what could have been done better, so that we keep moving forward as a team. Guest feedback is also very important. The best moment is when they tell us that a flavour reminded them of their childhood or something from the past. That's when we know the food has left a mark on them.

Would you like to taste Roman's cooking?

You can try a dish that bears his signature and matches Semillon's autumn menu, too. Roman prepared pigeon with celeriac purée and tarragon lentils for us, and while cooking it, he tested the Orion Expert Hybrid Multi-Layer pans.

Pizza plate Relief 30.5 cm
Chic Relief white